Dublin to Kilkenny 130 KM 1.5 Hours.
My first day of driving on the left was rough. We had to cross a mountain pass during a storm named Amy, and if you’ve ever been blown across two lanes of traffic, you know what it was like. The problem was, most of the roads were only one lane — so we found ourselves unintentionally communing with nature a few times. (Hello, Fuschia!)
See more at the bottom about rental cars and costs. I got some great advice about the type of car to rent and it's worth reading about if you are going to drive.
We stopped for lunch at the Wicklow Heather Restaurant. It looked great, inside and out, but the food was just okay — maybe we ordered the wrong thing? It was our first day in Ireland, after all. However, as we were leaving, a tour bus pulled up — and when you’re at the tour bus stop, it’s usually not a good sign.
Time to see some old stuff — the 6th century will do!
Glendalough Abbey, founded by St. Kevin, began as a remote monastic retreat hidden deep in the glacial valley of County Wicklow. Over time, it grew into one of Ireland’s most powerful monastic centers, attracting scholars, pilgrims, and kings. Later it was plundered by Vikings and the English. It's a beautiful site and a great place to do some hiking/walking.
Somehow, despite the deluge, we made it to Kilkenny. It’s the charming Irish town we’d been hoping for — complete with a cathedral, pubs every five feet, and a castle.
We stayed at the Zuni. We rocommend it. The staff was great (ask for Christian at the bar) and the food fantastic. I told them it was an annversary trip when I made the reservation and we got a nice surprise.
Notes on car rentals:
We rented an Arteca. It was decent.
The thing is, you don’t want a low-profile car if you’re going off the highway in Ireland. You want to be able to see over the stone walls and hedges — who knows what sheep, cows, milk trucks, tractors, or Buddhist monks might be waiting around the next bend?
Also, car rental prices seem impossibly cheap when you first make a reservation, but if you want insurance, the cost about doubles. Plus, they take anywhere from €1,500 to €5,000 as a security deposit.
